plastic lenses are beyond the capability of
Liquid Detailing Formulas to repair. Although one of the
previous owners of this Jeep had tried to seal the cracks in this
lens (see photo below) with some sort of glue, it had eroded away,
and the lens housing had become contaminated. Humidity in the
housing had badly corroded the lamp socket, and it would not have
been too long until the unit failed.
While I was
and painting the Jeep, I
decided to replace both the front signal lenses. In the photos
below, you see what a difference it makes in the appearance of the
vehicle. You will also see that the rusty (factory) Torx™ screws
were replaced with Stainless Steel #8 x 3/4" Phillips head screws.
Now if I ever needed to replace a bulb, there is no need to hunt
through the toolkit for a
TorxTM Driver ... I could just use the Phillips driver on my
Leatherman WingmanTM Multi-Tool.
While I am on
the subject here, I must "kick this dog".... why in Heaven's name
car manufacturers choose to use the weirdest
triple-fluted polygonal hermaphrodite
screws in lens assemblies is beyond me. Oh, they will tell you "....it
is to prevent a thief from stealing the lens...",
or some-such bullshit. In reality, it is to make you go back to the
dealer to change a light bulb. Same with dashboards. Change a bulb?
You have to disassemble the vehicle! A few years ago a friend of
mine had to shell out $185 to a Chevy dealer to change a dashboard
light on a '91 Corvette Sting Ray. The bulb cost $1.75.
For reasons of
economics and to save the 3 days of labor it would take to do it
right, I decided NOT to convert the Jeep to
LED bulbs, but I replaced the
corroded front bayonet-style (push-in) bulb sockets with sockets for
the same type bulbs used in the rear signal housings. Replacing a
signal bulb is now much easier, but since all the bulbs are new, I
will probably never have to, and since all the bulbs are the same
(except for the side marker lamps), two new bulbs of each of the two
types in the toolkit suffice to cover the need if it ever arises.
If you use the
links below to the sellers on Amazon,
you not only
get the lens, but the entire lamp housing assembly.
In these units, the lens is acoustically welded to the reflector /
housing assembly, and is completely waterproof. The way it is set
up, you simply reach back under the fender and the lamp housing will
come out of the housing with 1/4-turn – or you can simply remove two
Phillips screws and have the whole assembly in your hand. The OEM
replacement housings are much better than the factory replacement
lenses which are separate from the housing, and rely on "luck" to
properly seal the assembly from the elements after you initially
break the factory seal to change a bulb.