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Jeep Wrangler - Restoration & Custom Outfitting
All photos, diagrams, and text on this page Copyright 2013 - David Todeschini - all rights reserved - see Copyright Terms

 

Mount Your Horns Outside your Jeep

 

Car horns are always mounted in the wrong place. When you tap the horn, it is likely that you hear it louder than the schmuck you're beeping at. This is because the horn is under the hood, where the sound gets muffled. The solution is to relocate the horns OUTSIDE the vehicle. Some will tell you that the horns will fail if they get wet. Not true. In addition, if you do this modification, you'll have the option of replacing your stock horns with aftermarket horns that are louder, or "meep-meep!" or "ahh-oooh-gahh!" style horns.

Brass bracket DIY for relocation of Jeep horns The modification starts with a simple "U"-shaped bracket made from 1" x 1/16" thick brass stock. Brass is nice to work with because it is easily worked, and will not rust where you're putting it.
Original Jeep horns mounted on a brass bracket Remove the horns from where they are and fasten them to the bracket. Use stainless steel hardware to prevent rusting.
Splicing wires with plumber's white teflon pipe tape and red nail polish

Cut the plugs off the horns, leaving 2 or 3 inches of wire. You will need about 4 feet of stranded zip-cord wire (speaker cable) that has one conductor a different color than the other. This makes it easier to hook the wires up properly (+) must go to the positive wire, and (-) must go to the negative wire. If you mix them up, you may blow the horn fuse when you tap the horn.

 

Use crimp connectors (if you don't know how to solder), and solder the plugs to each of the 4-foot zip cords. Use white plumber's Teflon thread tape to insulate the joints, then paint the joint with red nail polish or Glyptal.

 

 

Mounting location on Jeep Wrangler for car horns behind front license plate Use plastic electrical tape to protect the wire from the plug up the wire about 18 inches. Route each of the individual horn wires into a plastic cable protector (available at any auto parts store).

 

Secure the horn end of the cable harness to the vehicle's frame close to where the horns are mounted (yellow zip-tie in the photo).

Wire splice covered with white plumber's pipe (teflon) tape

On the engine-compartment end, splice the wires into the original harnesses where the horns originally connected.

 

IMPORTANT

 

You MUST observe the polarity of the wires. In other words, if the wires are white and black, they must connect to the white and black on the horns. If you connect white to black and black to white, the horns may not work, and you could end up blowing the horn fuse.

When you are done in the engine compartment, use plastic electrical tape to restore the integrity of the wiring harnesses.

Remove the original bracket that the horns were mounted to (shown by orange arrows).

Three-inch long 1/4" x 20 machine screws are used to mount the bracket, which, shown here, is on a frame member at the center of the radiator, directly behind my front license plate. Nuts on the bottom secure the bolts tightly. Two additional nuts are used (screwed on 3/4" from the end of the bolts), and the bracket is then pushed onto the bolts (see next picture).

This is how the bracket and horns look mounted under the Jeep before the bottom bolts were tightened. The horns are directly behind the front license plate, and the bells have been adjusted so that no moisture can accumulate in the horns with the vehicle sitting at up to a 15 upward incline.
If you eventually replace the horns with newer, louder ones, this is how it should look. kick-ass isn't it?

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